Author: Jamie Diaz

  • The Secret Spots: Finding Uncrowded Breaks (Vol. 14)

    The Secret Spots: Finding Uncrowded Breaks (Vol. 14)

    This one keeps coming up in questions, so we’re bringing it back with more detail.

    Every experienced California surfer carries a mental map of places they will never post on Instagram. The secret spot is one of the last genuinely sacred things in surf culture — discovered through years of exploring dirt roads, reading topo maps, and putting in time at breaks everyone else overlooked.

    Finding your own spots requires curiosity more than athleticism. Drive down roads that look like they go nowhere. Check satellite imagery for reef formations at low tide. Talk to old-timers at the surf shop — not about their spots, but about the character of the coast. Pay attention to wind direction, swell angle, and tide windows that most surfers ignore.

    The etiquette is simple: what you find, you protect. Share it only with people you trust. The moment a break appears on a surf app or a popular Instagram account, it is gone. The crowds arrive within days and never fully leave.

  • Beginner’s Guide to Your First Surf Lesson (Vol. 4)

    Beginner’s Guide to Your First Surf Lesson (Vol. 4)

    We keep coming back to this topic because it keeps mattering.

    Every surfer you see threading barrels and carving turns started in the whitewater. The beginning is awkward, humbling, and absolutely worth it. Here is what to expect from your first lesson.

    Your instructor will start on the beach, walking you through the pop-up motion: lying flat, hands beside your chest, pushing up and planting your feet in one fluid movement. Practice this on land until it feels automatic. In the water, everything happens fast.

    The first waves you catch will be whitewater — broken waves that push you toward shore with forgiving force. Focus on your stance. Feet shoulder-width apart, knees bent, arms out for balance, eyes looking forward. Do not look down at the board. Ride it out to the sand and do it again. And again. The ocean is a patient teacher if you let it be.