Author: Morgan Bennett

  • Winter Swells: Why Cold Water Means Better Waves (Vol. 21)

    Winter Swells: Why Cold Water Means Better Waves (Vol. 21)

    An update on something we’ve talked about before, with new context.

    November through March, powerful low-pressure systems spinning across the North Pacific generate the largest and most consistent swells of the year. While summer crowds thin and casual surfers pack away their boards, the serious locals know: this is when California truly delivers.

    The water temperature drops into the low fifties along the central and northern coast. A good 4/3mm wetsuit, booties, and gloves become essential equipment. But the reward for tolerating the cold is access to waves of a size and quality that simply do not arrive in summer.

    The great winter swells of recent memory — the El Niño winters of 2016 and 2023 — brought forty-year events to breaks that rarely see overhead surf. Mavericks ran. Jaws detonated. And down at the local beach break, a generation of surfers got the sessions of their lives.

  • How California Surf Culture Shaped the World (Vol. 11)

    How California Surf Culture Shaped the World (Vol. 11)

    A few things have changed since we first covered this, so here’s a fresh pass.

    It started on the beaches of Waikiki and found its true home on the California coast. By the 1960s, Malibu, Huntington Beach, and Santa Cruz had become the epicenters of a global cultural movement — surf culture — that would reshape fashion, music, language, and lifestyle for generations.

    The Gidget films brought surfing to Middle America. The Beach Boys gave it a soundtrack. Bruce Brown’s “The Endless Summer” turned it into philosophy. California did not invent surfing, but it packaged it, sold it, and spread it to every coastline on earth.

    The legacy is complicated. Commercialization diluted authenticity. Crowds destroyed the solitude that made surfing magical. But the core of the culture — the early mornings, the community of the lineup, the surrender to something larger than yourself — remains intact wherever waves break.

  • Surfing the Channel Islands: A Weekend Guide

    Surfing the Channel Islands: A Weekend Guide

    Forty miles off the Ventura coast, the Channel Islands deliver some of the best uncrowded surfing in California. No roads, no crowds, no cell service — just pristine waves breaking over kelp-fringed reefs and empty beaches.

    The crossing takes ninety minutes by boat from Ventura Harbor. Island Packers runs regular trips to Santa Cruz Island, the largest of the chain, where a handful of quality breaks await those willing to make the journey. Bring enough supplies for two or three days — camping is permitted, and the stargazing alone is worth the trip.

    The surf ranges from mellow beach breaks suitable for all levels to serious reef passes that demand experience and respect. Check the swell forecast carefully before you go. A well-timed trip in winter or early spring can produce conditions that rival anywhere in the world.