Author: Taylor Grant

  • Surfboard Shaping: The Craft Behind Every Ride (Vol. 18)

    Surfboard Shaping: The Craft Behind Every Ride (Vol. 18)

    Bringing this back around with a couple of updates worth sharing.

    Inside a dusty Encinitas workshop, master shaper Rick Martinez runs his hands along a foam blank, eyes closed, reading the curve like braille. He has shaped over twelve thousand boards in thirty years. Each one is different. Each one is a conversation between the shaper, the surfer, and the wave.

    Modern surfboard shaping has split into two worlds: machine-assisted production shaping, which uses computer-controlled routers to cut foam to precise dimensions, and traditional hand shaping, where the entire board is created by hand with planers, sanding blocks, and decades of accumulated intuition.

    The best boards often combine both — a machine cut that gets the blank close to the final shape, then a shaper’s hands to finish the rails, refine the concave, and add the subtle asymmetries that make a board come alive under a specific surfer’s feet. Come visit our shop to see the process firsthand.

  • The Secret Spots: Finding Uncrowded Breaks (Vol. 8)

    The Secret Spots: Finding Uncrowded Breaks (Vol. 8)

    An update on something we’ve talked about before, with new context.

    Every experienced California surfer carries a mental map of places they will never post on Instagram. The secret spot is one of the last genuinely sacred things in surf culture — discovered through years of exploring dirt roads, reading topo maps, and putting in time at breaks everyone else overlooked.

    Finding your own spots requires curiosity more than athleticism. Drive down roads that look like they go nowhere. Check satellite imagery for reef formations at low tide. Talk to old-timers at the surf shop — not about their spots, but about the character of the coast. Pay attention to wind direction, swell angle, and tide windows that most surfers ignore.

    The etiquette is simple: what you find, you protect. Share it only with people you trust. The moment a break appears on a surf app or a popular Instagram account, it is gone. The crowds arrive within days and never fully leave.